Sunday, March 3, 2013

A date with Winnie


So there she was, waiting and watching me through the casement with shy longing. As I approached, her mask of timidity melted away to reveal a true nature as she wordlessly beckoned me to approach. Her heady scent caught my senses and led me closer with hints of deep earth and woodland passion.  I knew at once that I had met my equal as my lips met her cleanly washed… rind?


Wait a minute. That’s not what happened at all! Oh sure, things like this are definitely possible, but tend to only happen in books that people buy without a cover for twenty five cents. The real romance that occurs in the world of cheese most commonly appears in two places. The first is with the artist. The cheese maker that takes pride in the product he or she produces, in the natural elements that come into play which make this cheese unique, and in the effort required to turn their toil into a small piece of perfection.

The second romantic encounter is the tentative moment when one tries a cheese for the first time. Just like a first date, the initial taste of a new cheese can be both anxious and exciting. The differences between cheeses can be rather expansive like comparing  a cheddar to a Brie, but it can also be incredibly subtle like comparing two cheddars produced in two very different regions. It is for this reason that trying out something new from your local fromagerie can have that awkward first date feel.

So this is how my encounter with “Winnie” more accurately occurred. I sped to my new favorite cheese shop, the Bloomy Rind, only barely beating their closing time. (I am becoming famous for this already) I explained to the lovely Curator Mary that I had begun to blog my experiences regarding my journey through the wonderful world of curd, and that I wanted something to try for my next review.  I had already reviewed a cheese in the cheddar family and I wanted to move onto something a bit more-creamy like a nice bloomy or washed rind cheese. That is when she introduced me to Winnimere.

As any good purveyor of fine fromage will do, Mary at first offered me a sample before my decision to buy, but as I was looking for a cheese to review, I politely declined. I mean, if I only blogged about cheeses I liked, it really wouldn’t be very objective, now would it? Mary liked that idea and did something that impressed me. She suggested a smaller sample of the cheese than I initially asked for unless I was planning on sharing with a group. To me, that showed not only class, but it told me this person cared about her customers as well as the products she is clearly passionate about. The Bloomy Rind has definitely earned my loyalty and its owner my respect.

Now, on to the cheese, shall we? (More on the Bloomy Rind in an upcoming feature.) I took my date .. uh.. I mean my cheese home and set out a plating of all of the things I planned to pair it with. In this case I went with a nice Casalingo Salami by Creminelli, some Sunburst tomatoes, and a locally produced wildflower honey. All of this to be delivered on some olive oil and sea salted crostini.

First base –As this is a washed rind cheese it came standard with a fairly strong smell indicative of the majority of this breed of cheeses. My first taste of the cheese included some of the top rind which is not as strong as some washed rind cheeses and didn’t overpower the flavor of the creamy center. It was a mildly pungent taste with a sweet interior and expressed both woody and meaty accents. One of my guests equated it to smoked bacon.

Second base – (the meat test) My next sampling included a piece of the Casalingo, and they blended together rather well. Both the cheese and the salami had similar tones and together they managed to enhance each other very well. As far as I was concerned this was definitely a pass. There are several crass jokes I could make here since my theme seems to have turned into a dating show, but since I am trying to keep this blog PG, I will refrain from commenting on the innuendos prevalent to the mention of salami. Nope. Not gonna do it.

Moving on!

Third Base –( Tannin test) Now it was time to see how well it did when paired with a fruit that produced a fair amount of tannins, so I added the Sunburst tomatoes. You see, the micro flora (AKA mold) on some washed and bloomy rind cheeses can react poorly to the tannins in things like wine and some fruit such as tomatoes. This is definitely an unpleasant happenstance should you encounter it that is akin to chewing on a mouthful of aspirin. (Not recommended by the way) In the case of “Winnie” there was no such reaction. She remained sweet with the tomatoes, and even enhanced the flavor of their pairing with the meaty earth tone fragrance she was wearing. (I’m horrible.)

Rounding on home base – (Going for the sweet spot) At this point I brought out the honey and gave it a shot. We’re going all the way at this point, so no turning back right?  The result?  You’re outta there! Don’t get me wrong, the honey was enjoyable, and the pairing didn’t taste bad, but the sweetness of the bee juice just totally overshadowed poor Winnie. A lot of the flavor notes from the cheese were completely drowned out by the boldness of the honey. It was so much so that eating it with the cheese seemed redundant since the cheese wasn’t really contributing anything with it. I would recommend a nice fig jam or some dried fruits in this category if you’re planning on trying the dessert route for serving this cheese.

All in all, Winnimere is definitely a cheese worth exploring. She can be a bit shy at first but once you get going, don’t be afraid to explore new things. I think you would find her a most willing partner. I would just avoid anything with too strong or sweet notes as Winnie can get lost in the music. Keep things earthy or meaty like something by Barry Wh.. I mean a nice cured meat or something with a bit of smoke. I would definitely recommend this cheese to just about any tasting, but keep in mind, her perfume might not be for everyone, so handle introductions to new people very delicately.

Now, a word on the creamery behind this delicate flower. The Jasper Hill Creamery is nestled in the hills of Greensboro, Vermont. The cheese is produced between January and June using the winter milk of their Ayrshire herd of cows and aged in the creameries underground cellars. The cheese is wrapped in bark gathered from the local spruce population, and this adds both a woody flavor to the cheese, and also helps it hold its shape during the aging process. In order to elevate the flavor producing bacteria, the cheese is washed in beer produced by a local micro-brewery. All of these elements definitely go a long way to making Winnimere a very distinctive and pleasant cheese. It is recommended by her makers that Winnimere be served by removing the top rind allowing access to the creamy and scoopable center. I definitely predict a second date. (I hope she calls.)

Have you tried this cheese?  Do you have any pairing suggestions or recipes that might benefit from the addition of a Winnimere? If so, tell me about it as a comment to this entry!

Friday, February 22, 2013

A Cool Breeze


So there I was, standing at the cheese counter in my local grocery store, contemplating what type of cheese should be the subject of my first review.   Should it be a nice bloomy triple crème, or maybe a nice buttery washed rind. I could easily turn to a tangy blue, or maybe a sharp hard cheese like cheddar or aged provolone.  I had no expectations of finding a well-crafted artisanal cheese in a chain supermarket, but then I saw it.

Nestled among the Cabots and store brand cheddar cheeses, a bright yellow label stood out from the rest of the over the top attempts at advertising. It simply read “Milk produced on small family farms”. I thought to myself, this might be worth checking into, and I picked up the closest block to find the producer. The cheese was called “Prairie Breeze”, and the label pronounced that is was produced by the Milton Creamery. There was a website in the border of the label so I decided it was worth checking out.

I picked up a few things I thought might be interesting to try with it as it was clearly in the cheddar family by its density and color, so I picked up some Recipe No. 5 Pinot Grigio Salami by Giovani Volpe & Company. I went with some sunburst tomatoes for a touch of sweet in case the cheese was sharp. I chose some sweet onion crackers from Partners as the delivery system that would bring it all to my mouth.


Upon opening the cheese I noticed there wasn’t a lot of oil on the surface. It was going to be a crumbly one. The smell was pretty mild, especially for cheddar, so I wasn’t expecting it to be very sharp. (It was a sneaky cheese. I will elaborate later.) The first cut on my handcrafted wire cheese board (I love to support local craftspeople.) did not fall apart, so it wasn’t as hard as parmesan or a 2 year aged provolone.

My first taste was the cheese by itself. I wanted to make sure I got the full experience unhindered by any of my chosen pairings. As soon as it hit my tongue, I was pleasantly surprised by the fact that it was sweet. It was at that point that I noticed it did indeed crumble and there were tiny pockets of salt that can gather during the cheddaring process, another pleasant surprise. The flavor was even and not initially sharp, and then it creeps up on you.  (here’s the sneaky, ninja cheese part.) The after taste of the cheese slowly comes up from somewhere in the back, and you’re reminded of a nice aged provolone or a Dubliner. I found myself enjoying the multiple layers of flavor that move in like partners in crime as you eat this little rustic treasure.

Now it was time for the meat test. Meat and cheese have gone together since man discovered that food tastes far better preserved than rancid. The salami I chose has a nice woody flavor with a hint of spice and wine. A cheese like Prairie Breeze should work well with just about any artisan meats, and this was no exception. The heady flavors of the salami rolled wonderfully into the sweet and tangy arms of the cheese like a sincere hug from that favorite someone.  This is definitely a cheese just as comfortable at a tailgate with a good beer as it is next to a Chaource and candied fruit.

With each taste I added another layer. The sunburst tomatoes were next, and then I finally laid it all on one of the sweet onion crackers. The flavors laced together to make a wonderful combination that I would enjoy during any serving and would definitely recommend it to anyone who likes a good cheddar or similar hard or crumbly cheese. Prairie Breeze  is pretty versatile and could be served by itself or with any number of combinations. Don’t be afraid to experiment with it and it is easily a cheese that would be a crowd pleaser if shared.

Now that I’ve reviewed the cheese, let me comment on the family behind it. I explored the website (www.miltoncreamery.com) for the Milton Creamery and found a community that not only cared about the product they produced, but were really proud of the result.  To quote from their story “We make cheese and we want you to try it.” A simple Mennonite family from Pennsylvania, the Mussers settled in the farm country of Milton Iowa in 1992. As dairy farmers, and completely surrounded by Amish farmland, making cheese seemed a match made in, well; Heaven.  In cooperation with their Amish neighbors, the Milton Creamery was born.

The creamery itself is nestled on some of the prettiest countryside that I’ve ever seen, and I would love  paying them a visit just for the chance to enjoy the view. Having access to all of their stock wouldn’t be too bad either. The Musser family sincerely puts the “farmhouse” in their farmhouse style of cheeses and I look forward to trying more of their products. Suffice to say, I am happy that I was able to discover this little gem, and their Prairie Breeze was certainly a breath of fresh air. 

If you've tried this cheese already, or you happen to read this blog and go rushing to the store to find some for yourself, let me know about it in the comments below. Tell me what you thought of the cheese and what you paired it with. Got a recipe you might think would benefit from some Prairie Breeze? Share it!

Wednesday, February 20, 2013

The Quest for Curd

As this is my first blog, and I haven't got a clue how these things start, I guess the story of how I got to this point is the best place to begin.

To begin with, let me say that I love cheese. I mean I REALLY LOVE cheese. Growing up, dinner wasn't complete without something made from some kind of milk product. The problem is, I really didn't know what cheese really was until a couple of years ago. You see, I had become tired of the same old counter top offerings of lactose. For me, real cheese never meant more than the standard Cabot sharp, or on some more daring occasions, a generic blue. There were very few options. Either I abandon my love of curd, or I find something to rekindle that childhood passion. The quest began.

Believe it or not, I almost owe my "cultural" growth to a comedy sketch called "Cheese Shop" by Monty Python. Maybe you've seen it. That whole sketch was a little like a metaphor for my love of cheese and my lack of understanding as to what cheese actually is. In the Sketch, a customer walks into a cheese shop and begins to request several cheeses from the monger behind the counter. In every case, the Monger replies to the gist that he doesn't have it or has run out of each one. By the end, the realization is that there is no cheese available to be sold in this particular boutique. The difference with me is that I had never heard of any of the cheeses that were mentioned, but I knew that would be the perfect place to start. The similarity is that once I started asking for them, none of them were available in my normal locales. I knew I had to find new places to locate that which I sought.

I started searching the interwebs with skeptical expectations of finding places that sold my comic list of cheeses. I mean, after all, if you can't find these things at your local supermarket, who else would carry them, right? Yeah, after some searching, I realized just how clueless about the culture of culture I was. My first break happened when, on a recommendation, I stop for something (not cheese related) at a nearby Whole Foods market. I noticed they had a very well stocked cheese counter, and low and behold, I found a wensleydale! I was so happy to have found one of the cheeses on my list that I almost forgot to get what I had come there for in the first place. My journey had begun.

I made several trips to the same Whole Foods, each time grabbing a new cheese, some were not even on my list, and each time I went, I noticed this little room with huge cheese wheels along the back wall. At first I paid it no mind expecting that it was just the room for cutting and packaging the cheese that was sold at the counter. Boy was I wrong. Happily wrong. On a whim, I decided to talk to the young lady working in the room, and she explained that the little cubby of curds was actually filled with exceptional artisanal offering that are cut, packaged and sold to order. I was in heaven. I knew I had arrived.  ..sort of.

Don't get me wrong, pricing aside, Whole Foods was a great first step for me, and I would recommend them to anyone getting started on their own search for amazing fromage. The problem I eventually ran into was the turnaround on the mongers that worked there. I love making friends, but I'd also like to keep the ones I've made, and it made it difficult to build a rapport with your local purveyor of cheese if they constantly disappear. It was recommended in several sources during my online search that one should build a relationship with his or her favored cheese monger. I had cut my teeth at this point and, at least in my own mind, I had earned some chops on the subject of real cheese, so I began to explore other options.

So, in an attempt to stem the flood of thoughts on the subject, on the urging of my lovely wife, I have gotten off my butt and started this little blog to share my experiences as I delve deeper into a subject both dear to my heart and my taste buds. (more on the subject of spouses and cheese in a future post.)

So, if you're interested in cheese and want to know a little more, stay tuned as I sample and review the byproduct of an ancient and highly artistic trade that is rich in both passion and culture. (pun intended)